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Malinalco is one those enchanted little Mexican towns that sounds like a tried and tested cliche but actually is closer to fact than fiction. Lying in the State of Mexico, near the industrial city of Toluca, Malinalco is surrounded by mountains, forests and breathtaking scenery.
It's biggest attraction is that it has one of Mexico's best preserved Aztec temples. El Cuauhcalli, or the Temple of Iniciacion, was cut whole from a nearby mountain and, along with pyramids in India, Jordan, and Egypt, is one of four monolithic pyramids in the world. The Aztecs conquered Malinalco between 1469 and 1481, and emperor Ahuizotl oversaw the pyramid's construction in 1501. Every year on March 21, during the spring equinox, hundreds of people dressed in white pour into Malinalco to climb the pyramid and perform a ceremony that charges them with energy. During the winter equinox, on December 21, visitors witness a ray of light shine through the temple doorway to reveal the image of an eagle on the floor.
A well-restored 16th-century Augustinian convent (admission free), fronted by a tranquil tree-lined yard, faces the central plaza. Impressive frescoes fashioned from herb- and flower-based paint adorn its cloister. Just uphill from the plaza, the tourist office is inside the Palacio Municpal. There's an ATM on Hidalgo, on the convent's north side.
Malinalco has a variety of hotels, small stores, beautiful restaurants and a wonderful downtown. An important part of Malinalco is its colonial streets where you can take a tour and admired typical colonial houses proper of the town. Recently in downtown many artist had installed a couple of ambulant stores of artisanal products that are really popular.
Malinalco's traditional culinary specialty is trout. This dish became popular here with the many pilgrims who stayed here while visiting the nearby shrine of Chalma. Many restaurants and street stands serve the fish in a variety of ways: wrapped in paper and steamed, fried, highly-spiced or "a la diabla" and covered in garlic butter. A traditional drink to have with the meal nowadays is a pineapple prepared with tequila, vodka or mezcal.
Retirees and Snowbirds
This idyllic town has in recent years become an attractive retreat for U.S. retirees and Canadian snowbirds. Lured by the traquil settings and pleasant climate all-year round, Malinalco is also vastly cheaper compared to other popular retirement cities in Mexico. As a response to this rising interest boutique hotels have sprung up in the area that offer long-term rental packages. One hotel, Amel, is an old hacienda style house that has been converted into a small, luxury hotel with six spacious rooms that offer special rental deals up to six months.
Where To Eat
Beto's Morelos 8 Tue-Sun, 12pm-7pm Tel: 147-03-11
Los Placeres West side of the plaza Fri-Sun, 9am-Midnight Tel: 147-08-55
Las Palomas Guerrero 104 Tue-Thu, 10am-6pm Fri-Sun, 10am-10pm Tel: 147-08-55
Les Chefs Morelos 107 Fri-Sun Tel: 147-04-01
Where to Stay
Hotel Amel Calle del Tanque s/n Malinalco, Estado de Mexico Tel: 55 71414 70202 www.hotelamel.com
Casa Limon Rio Lerma 103 Tel: 147-02-56 www.casalimon.com
Casa Mora Calle de la Cruz 18 147-05-72 www.casamora.net
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