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 The Pueblos Magicos (Magic Towns) program was initiated by the Mexican government to help preserve towns that embodied the best of Mexican culture, history and tradition. Launched in 2001, the program provides financial assistance to places that "reflect the beauty of traditional Mexican culture" according to Tourism Secretary Rodolfo Elizondo. The program has met with stunning success in terms of increasing tourism and bringing a much needed cash injection into these areas. Currently, there are 34 towns that are officially listed as Pueblos Magicos. If you want to experience Mexico's rich history and architectural past then these places are definitely worth visiting.
There's something fascinating about man-made island-cities. Perhaps, being enveloped by water gives an allusion to a fairy-tale setting and that by traversing it means you've set off on a journey into the unknown. Mexcaltitan, which is in the State of Nayarit on the western coast of Mexico, is one such place. Historians say it was founded in 1091 by a tribe called the Mexica and was originally known as Aztlan. The Mexica would later famously set out on a pilgrimage from the island that would lead them to the founding of Tenochtitlan - the cradle of the Aztec civilization - and which is now present-day Mexico City.
Mexcaltitan is small. The diameter of the island is only 400 meters in length and walking at a genteel pace one can easily traverse the whole place in a couple of hours. A twenty-minute boat ride from the mainland, the island is very accessible and there are always local folk willing to take you across the water for next to nothing. However, to emphasize how small Mexcaltitan is there is only one official hotel on the whole island.
During the months of September, October, and November the streets of Mexcaltitan fill up with water and residents navigate them via small boats which lends itself to being called Mexico's Little Venice. A huge cottage industry on the island is shrimp. It's practically everywhere. Here's one blogger's description from a recent visit:
There were layers of shrimp in the shell, and a few fish, drying in the sun on almost every sidewalk. They were pink, so they must have been cooked, and they were just lying there. Everywhere. After we checked into the hotel and explored our room, we went back out to have a look around. Most of the time we walked in the middle of the dirt roads because the sidewalks all had shrimp on them.
To ensure the shrimp supply doesn't wane, every year on June 20 residents of Mexcaltitan will adorn their fishing boats with images of Saint Peter and Saint Paul in the hope that it will bring them good luck for the season's harvest. The day is chock full of celebrations and culminates with a firework display at night.
There are no cars on Mexcaltitan and you're free to walk down the middle of its streets without having to look over your shoulder - a welcome relief to any urbanite. In the center of the island is the local museum - Museo del Origen - which was formerly the town's mausoleum. There you can immerse yourself in Mesoamerican history and trace the origins of the island's first settlers. One thing to bear in mind is the heat. Mexcaltitan can be unbearably hot with extreme levels of humidity so it's advisable to drink lots of liquids when you're there.
Although Mexcaltitan is a Pueblo Magico it's not frequented often by tourists. That's largely due to the poor road network leading to the lake's mainland which is made up of a series of potholes and unmarked roads. If you are going to make the trip to Mexcaltitan it's best not to go under a tight schedule.
Island dwellers have their own curious sensibilities. Cut off from the mainland, they sometimes develop customs and rituals that has much to with the separation of water as to regional differences. In Mexcaltitan, there's definitely an emphasis on being local to the extent that none of the stores have names as residents seem to know who sells what.
Tourist Offices
Nayarit Under Secretary for Tourism
Avenida Mexico y Calz. del Ejercito
Nacional s/n, Centro
Tepic, Nayarit
Tel. (311) 214 8071
www.visitnayarit.com
Direccion de Turismo de Santiago Ixcuintla
20 de Noviembre s/n, Centro
Santiago Ixcuintla, Nayarit
Tel. (323) 235 0595
Where To Eat
Palapas
At the Lake's Edge
Mexcaltitan
El Farallon
Ocampo 132, Centro
Santiago Ixcuintla
Tel. (323) 235 1200
Albatros
Arteaga 4, Centro
Santiago Ixcuintla
Tel. (323) 235 0717
La Alberca
Porfirio Diaz 15
Santiago Ixcuintla
Tel. (323) 235 6026
Where To Stay (Hotels Nearby Mexcaltitan)
Casino Plaza
Ocampo y Rayon 40, Centro
Santiago Ixcuintla
Tel. (323) 235 0850 / 52
El Sesteo
Domicilio Conocido
Playa El Sesteo
Santiago Ixcuintla
Tel. (323) 233 0082
Blanquita
Manuel Uribe e
Indepedencia s/n,
Bay Tuxpan
Tel. (319) 232 0684
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