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Xalapa, Veracruz
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Just skirting through the town over the weekend for a brief one-night stay, Manuel and I found a few gems that weren’t mentioned in our guide book. Il Pomodoro: The Italian restaurant just a quick stroll from Parque Juarez was the place to be on Saturday night. With a continual wait in the lobby, the cuisine is quite popular with families and couples. The menu is large and the wine list long and descriptive. The prices were very economical: less than $4USD for pasta and $7 or $8 for seafood or meat. I enjoyed an appetizer of roasted potatoes with fresh mushrooms and melted Gouda. My salad was delicious: a simple Romaine tossed with house-made croutons, ripe tomatoes and an olive-oil dressing. As an entrée the gnocchi were tasty with ground beef and a scrumptious red sauce. Manuel ordered one of everything with shrimp in it, and highly recommends the shrimp pizza as the best of his samplings. One suggestion: when you go, ask for the smoking section. All the best tables are in the smoking section on the patio, with candlelight, potted plants and trees. Indoors the ambiance isn’t much better than what can be found in a diner. Antojitos Doña Mary, Central Market: Here I found the best chilaquiles that I’ve had in months. The café con leche was piping hot and brewed with local Veracruz coffee beans. There are also picadas on the menu, which are nearly the same thing as a sope, except they are huge—almost the size of a medium pizza. This lively stand within the central market of Xalapa was busy, yet it runs smoothly with no less than 8 men and women working in the kitchen. As in all traditional markets, prices are a bargain, and Doña Mary’s is no exception. Next time I pass through Xalapa, I’ll be sure to stop in again. Mujeres con Huevos: Just outside of Xalapa in Xico, Veracruz, exists a collective of over 100 women working together to improve their community and augment their families’ income. The women (and a few men) of Mujeres con Huevos sell free-range, high-quality eggs to the communities of Xico, Xalapa and even Mexico City. While I didn’t have the opportunity to speak with these women or find one of the venues for their eggs in Xalapa while I was there, the information I’ve learned about the program created by these women merits mention in this blog for future visitors to the area. Spearheaded by Guadalupe Torres Ramírez, Dora Gálvez Juárez and Kris McCamant, the program has 3 impactful goals. The first is to sell free-range eggs of the highest quality and nutritional value. In Mexico, the world’s leader in egg consumption per capita, this accomplishment has significant impact in the community. Through strict quality standards, the collective’s members have become experts on maintaining cleanliness in their operations. Standards for egg quality, uniformity, size and color are also met. The second goal of the collective is to stop the alarming rate of habitat deterioration common among campesino communities in central Veracruz. To reach this goal, weekly meetings are held among the members of Mujeres con Huevos to foster an interchange of ideas, experiences and knowledge. The women have chosen to educate themselves on natural and traditional medicines for their hens, shunning the use of pharmaceuticals and other expensive, synthetic veterinary medicines. They have had success using herbs and homemade preparations in maintaining the health of their fowl, and their knowledge of proper nutrition contributes to the health of the flocks. Additionally, the hens are feed natural grains and vegetables, not processed foods. Lastly, the third goal of the collective is to put an end to the migration of Xico families and young men to the United States. By providing additional income and education for the members of Mujeres con Huevos, the hope is that women gain the financial resources necessary to raise a family right here in Veracruz, thereby eliminating the need to migrate abroad to earn a living. For contact information on Mujeres con Huevos and a list of locations where their eggs are sold, see http://www.elgolfo.info/elgolfo/index/op/noticia/id/11783.html, the source for this blog.
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Community Radio in Mexico
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Friday I found myself in a small town in the state of Veracruz that I hadn’t even heard of the week before. It was fantastic to get out of D.F. for the weekend and breathe some fresh air. The flora of the central Veracruz highlands is completely different from what I am getting used to in the big capital city; the humid air and lush, dense vegetation was a welcome change. Everything was green—a rich, vibrant, enlivening green. A comfortable walk up the sloping hill in Teocelo, Veracruz, home to about 14,000 residents, brought us to the doorstep of Radio Teocelo, the most well-known and respected community radio station in Mexico. The reason for our visit was Manuel’s potential Master’s thesis, a sociological study of community radio in Mexico and its effect on the lives of citizens living in local pueblos within broadcast distance. As we spoke with the men and women behind the scenes at the radio station, I began to understand the breadth of the impact this radio station has on the community. The number of projects they have in the works is impressive, especially considering that they only have a core group of about 7 volunteers managing these initiatives. Hearing stories about community involvement with Radio Teocelo was uplifting, and a welcome change from the dark focus in Mexico City on murders and deaths that daily plaster the front pages of so many newspapers. At the core of Radio Teocelo’s mission is fraternity and beneficial communication. The program directors are conscientious of the needs, interests (and music taste!) of the town’s inhabitants. The radio is the community’s source for weather, important town events and happenings, agricultural news, coffee prices, cultural events, and interviews with local government representatives. Indeed, mayors from Teocelo and neighboring towns are often interviewed over the air by town residents themselves, thereby voicing the community’s concerns, questions and opinions in transparent format. Just in the past few months, Radio Teocelo has begun broadcasting online. At first this idea was controversial at the station, because the program directors didn’t want to take focus away from the important, tight-knit community aspect of the station. However, the opposite is actually taking place. Since a large percentage of the population of central Veracruz has left the country to find work in the U.S., the availability of Radio Teocelo online has actually reconnected Veracruzanos living abroad with their towns and given them an important sense of belonging, despite the grand distances between families. Two relatively new offshoots from Radio Teocelo are Teocelo TV and Altavoz, a biweekly newsletter on current events in Teocelo and central Veracruz. Many of the articles are contributions from local writers and concerned citizens, as well as many of the topics covered by the new video component of the radio. One of the first video projects completed by Teocelo TV was in response to a woman who called in to the radio station voicing her dismay over the polluted state of a large creek running by her home. Teocelo TV took note of her complaint and produced a video segment about that very creek, linking the issue to environmental concerns at a community level and calling for widespread measures to care for Teocelo’s natural habitats. With such a variety of programs offered by the community and for the community, it uplifting to hear how much the residents do value Radio Teocelo. While the community is one of modest economic means, hundreds of families donating as little as $2USD a month is how the not-for-profit radio station pays its bills. Without paid advertising at the station, the life-line between the radio and the community’s financial support is apparent. To listen online or to find out more about Radio Teocelo, check out their site at http://www.radioteocelo.org/.
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Living the life
Written by Erin Strench
Luxury eating has always got to encompass the delights of Burger King. From the BK Fish Burger to the Double Whopper with Fries, you can't get a better bite in Mexico City...
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